WHY ?Trigger job.
The first generation 9mm and .40 does not have the best trigger in the world,
and the artifact from the injection molding process gives it a definite "ugh"
before it let off. Glass rod breaking it's not...
This was later fixed in the second gen (the ones with the hooked slide release),
the .45, and the compacts. The gain from working on those may not be worth the effort.
The sample I have is a 9mm with conventional land & groove barrel.
The rubbery feel at the end of the trigger travel ?
Well, you've just got to get a trigger stop to cure that.
Disassemble:
Press up the lanyard loop/hammer spring cap,
press out the pin with a punch,
release the cap, remove hammer spring.
Take the slide off.
On left side of frame, push in the detent lever pin until flush with frame,
remove the control lever detent plate,
(watch that detent plate springs out and fly across the room)
Push the pin out all the way, remove the disconnector
Remove the catch, and sear, just wiggle them out.
Wiggle the control lever out as far as it will go to the left,
rotating it up and down helps.
There is no need to remove the control lever all the way.
But if you must, insert a small pin punch or rod in to the groove next to
the ejector and press the 'T' bar down until it clears the control lever
then remove the control lever, T-bar, and T-bar spring.
Pull the hammer axle sleeve out the right side while
pressing down a little on the trigger bar.
Shake, the Hammer falls out if it's not already.
Rotate the trigger connecting bar up 90deg. and lift it out to the right.
Watch out for that connecting bar detent/spring in the grip!
It can also fly across the room and disappear. Take it out.
Turn the gun upside down, Hammer Strut falls out.
Observe the orientation of the trigger spring.
Push out the trigger axle shaft from the right side,
it will on come out one way. Take out the spring.
Take out the trigger from the bottom.
Elbow grease:
Polish all sharp corners on the disconnector, catch, and sear
with 1000-1200 grit wet/dry paper.
DO NOT polish the sear/hammer engaging surfaces.
DO NOT polish the sear/hammer engaging surfaces.
DO NOT polish the sear/hammer engaging surfaces.
Look for wear marks on mating surfaces of trigger bar, polish it.
Polish the detent pin. Wrap it in sand paper and rotate axially.
Polish the 4 corners of the hammer strut shaft where the
hammer spring rides on, and the top part where it engages the hammer.
Lightly polish the outside of the hammer axle shaft,
take off the sharp corners of the shaft.
Put the disconnector, catch, and sear on it's side and
run it back and fourth a few times on the sand paper.
Just enough to take off the high spots.
Look in the slot in the frame where the trigger comes up to engage
the trigger bar. Lots of excess plastic from casting process can
be found here, remove it CAREFULLY, you can't put it back on.....
Deburr the trigger axle hole in the axle.
Smooth off the nose of the trigger bar hinge
(the inside of the uppermost forward protrusion of the trigger assembly)
where it's dragging on metal insert in the frame.
Put the hammer and hammer axle in without the spring, press in on
the right side of the hammer/hammer bar pivot point and work the trigger,
it should be smooth during the forward travel. Polish more as needed.
Wipe off the debris from sanding.
If it's really dirty, rinse with #9, diesel, kerosene, or whatever your favourite solvent of the month is
and wipe dry.
If the solvent is also a degreasing agent, wipe down with light (liquid) lube, ie. CLP
Apply light coat of (moly/lithium/teflon/gun/rod&reel/pick one) grease on
hammer strut shaft and ALL other mating surfaces,
don't forget the hammer axle sleeve and control lever.
My current "Preferred Lube of the Month" is TW-25b from Kleen Bore
Lube it LIGHTLY, that is.
Reassemble:
Hint: DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING
If whatever won't go in, it's not lined up right, try again.
DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING
Put the Hammer Strut in first, install the trigger connecting bar,
don't forget the detent spring.
Install the hammer, make sure that the hammer strut engages the slot
in the middle of bottom side of the hammer. Wiggle it until it's right.
Install the axle shaft.
Press down a little on the trigger bar while you do this
Push the control lever back in all the way.
Sears and catch snaps in place without much protest.
Just make sure that they are positioned behind the flat spring
inside the frame and not on top and it will just slips in.
Slide in the disconnector plate.
Line up the holes and wiggle the pin in from the right until
it's flush with the left side of the frame.
Insert the detent plate, press it down and push the pin in until
it's flushed w/ the detent plate.
Install the hammer spring and lanyard loop/cover.
Press up on the lanyard loop/cover and work the hammer, it should not bind.
If it binds, the hammer strut is not lined up correctly with
the engagement slot on the hammer, wiggle the strut until it's right.
Press the lanyard loop/cap all the way up and insert pin.
Put the slide back on.
And, uh, you did LUBED it didn't you ?
No loose pieces left on the bench ?
Excellent !
Dry fire it a few times.
If nothing is missed or broken, the gun should be 100% functional.
Take it to the range and test it out.
Do I need to mention that you should load only 2-3 rounds in the first magazine ?
Done
! DISCLAIMER ! WARNING ! CAUTION !
Pictorial and text is intended for academic interest on an "as is basis"
NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE BREAKAGE OF YOUR USP
OR THE STATUS OF YOUR WARRANTEE
OR (*#$&^!!!) MALFUNCTIONING OF YOUR WEAPON WHICH MAY
LEAD TO INJURIES OR TERMINATION OF LIFE, PERMANENT OR OTHERWISE
NO WARRANTEE/GUARANTEE/PROMISES IS EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED
(|< 1996/1997/1998 Dr Killjoy@
Henry's KodeWerks & SquishyWarez
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a Member of The Banzai Institute